Kirstie’s Freestanding ‘Crow’ - Part One, The Armature

This armature is based on the frame that was made for a freestanding scarecrow, which featured in ‘Kirstie’s Handmade Britain’, first screened in 2011: http://www.channel4.com/programmes/kirsties-handmade-britain/4od#3276655. Instructions for making the scarecrow can still be downloaded from the Chanel 4 website.

This armature is great if you require a really stable, freestanding scarecrow that need not be driven into the ground or propped against a support. However, be warned! This is not a project for a novice builder. Having road tested Kirstie’s instructions, David offers the following advice.

1)        The instructions for the cross-section of each of the pieces of wood required to build the armature should be read as millimeters (mm), not centimeters (cm). Our instructions are all in millimeters (mm), which is the unit of measurement used by the building trade.

2)        Step One - The Square Base. Kirstie’s instructions for Step One recommend that the two chunky, 900 mm long cross pieces, which make up the solid wooden base, should be half lap jointed (notched). In large cross-section wood (Kirsty’s was 70 x 70 mm in section, ours was 85 x 35 mm) this requires the use of a handsaw and a chisel, and some expertise in woodwork. The result is neat and this method is shown in our photographs. However, an easier alternative is to lap the timbers without cutting anything away, and to nail or screw two wooden blocks (each made from the same wood as the cross pieces and about 100 mm long) to the underneath of the upper cross piece so that the base will stand level.

3)        Step Two – Preparing the Frame. We’d recommend that the ‘arms’ of this particular armature should be cut to shoulder width (about 500 mm) so that the clothes can be put on more easily, and to enable the armature to be moved about, without any danger of bashing into anything or anyone. It is heavy and cumbersome to lug around.

Kirsty recommends that the upright centre post of the scarecrow and the horizontal cross piece that forms the shoulders and arms should also be notched like the base, before the two pieces of wood are glued or screwed together. There is no need to do this, other than for neatness. Laying one piece of wood on top of the other at right angles and nailing or screwing them together without a notch is stronger, and is undetectable when the scarecrow has been dressed and stuffed. You can see the result in this photo.

I’d recommend that a small rectangle of plywood or similar board be screwed to the top of the centre post above the shoulders where the head bag will be placed, so that the scarecrow’s head cannot swivel around once it has been secured at the neck. Don't make it too large if you are planning to dress your 'crow' in a T-shirt, or it won't pop over this face plate.

4)       Step Three – Screwing the Frame to the Base. David did this by drilling and screwing in two long screws on opposite sides of the centre post, set at about 25 mm up from the bottom of the centre post and at 45 degrees, angled down into the solid timber base, rather than using Kirsty’s method of one long screw inserted into the scarecrow’s centre post from underneath centre of the heavy wooden base, which is really difficult.

5)        Step Four – Secure the Frame. The four 500 mm long supports (braces) that Kirsty recommends to support the upright centre post of the scarecrow should be cut to slightly different lengths to enable them all to be screwed to the centre post without the screws clashing.

6)        It is much easier to use inexpensive, tanalised tiling batten, which is widely available in 19 x 38 mm, 25 x 38 mm and 25 x 50 mm sections, and is sold in lengths of either 1800 mm or 2400 mm. The 20 x 20 mm sections that Kirsty recommends are too light, are not standard timber cross sections that can easily be sourced, and are comparatively expensive to buy. There is a danger that lighter sections will split when screwed together if the screw holes are not pre-drilled.

I'm heading off to Embroidery Group now. When I get back, I'll complete the soft body parts and give my verdict on the advantages and limitations of this type of 'crow'. I'll be offering this armature as one of the choices available to the crow-builders who are coming to Saturday afternoon's workshop.